DIY: Bedroom Wall Shelf
Friday, May 7, 2010 2:23DISCLAIMER: This post is not an instructional guide, but rather a description of an interesting DIY project. Please do not attempt this at home as Suitebase accepts no liability for your personal safety or for any damage that may be caused to any device in the process.
So you’re lying in bed gazing off into space while blinded by the ceiling fixture above. With its harsh incandescence beaming down over your face you’re forced to roll over to your side. While contemplating how to get any adequate mood lighting in your bedroom, you reach over to grab your pen and pad to start drafting some sort of solution. And it suddenly hits you! Or maybe not.
But luckily, we’re here to help.
Here is the next DIY project that you troopers have been waiting for. I rate this project at an intermediate level as basic construction skills and wiring is required. This cubby hole shelf creates a focal point above your headboard, while giving you a place to showcase some of your prized collectibles.
First, I’d like to point out that this project only works well when it runs from wall-to-wall above your bed. This ensures that the constructed cubby hole looks like it belongs and has a true built-in look. The design described here is for a construction that spans a 10′ bedroom wall. You should adjust the dimensions to accommodate your wall accordingly. Here is a short list of what you will need:
- 2 pieces of medium density fiberboard (20″ x 24″)
- 2 pieces of medium density fiberboard (4″ x 72″)
- 2 pieces of medium density fiberboard (4.5″ x 72″)
- 2 pieces of medium density fiberboard (4.5″ x 14″)
- Handful of wood screws
- 1 3-pack IKEA GRUNDTAL spotlights
- 3″ circular cutter drill bit
- 4 fluorescent tubes (4′ long)
- Paint
- Wood filler
- Mini steel chain cable (8′ long)
- Metal brackets or 4 pieces of scrap MDF (6″ x 2″)
- 3 thin bands of plywood (2″ x 8″)
- 1 extension cord
- 1 lamp switch (optional)
- L brackets
- 2 heavy duty picture frame hooks
As always, to save time, have the MDF precut at Home Depot with their free cutting service. Just make sure to plan first, and have the dimensions ready. Excluding the cutting, the only tools required are a drill, and a screw driver.
So the idea here is to construct a small box, and attach it flush behind the front facade. First, put together the front facade. Take both of the larger pieces of MDF, and bridge them using the longer pieces of MDF. This is illustrated in the diagram below.
To actually connect these pieces together, I recommend using scrap pieces of MDF, say 6″ x 2″, and drill through the scrap piece into the front facade. If you cannot find scrap pieces, you can use metal brackets with screw holes to secure the pieces together. Ensure that the connection is strong and will not shift. Use some wood filler and sandpaper to fill any gaps that may exist between the connecting pieces on the front facade.
Now that you’ve completed the front facade, you can build the box that is attached from behind.
Take one of the longer pieces of MDF and drill 3 holes for the spotlights. I won’t go into how to measure the distance between these holes, but try to center them to provide even light coverage. Now that the holes have been cut, you are ready to construct the box. This box will run slightly taller than the actual hole of the facade. The reason being that there is about 5/8″ left at the top as an offset to hide the exposed spotlights to be attached. If this space is not accounted for, the spotlights will be visible from the front of the wall fixture, and won’t look as clean. It doesn’t matter how much of an offset you leave, but just keep that in mind when constructing the box. The box is held together by simply screwing the side pieces directly into the ends of the longer pieces.
Now that the box has been constructed, it should fit directly over the back of the facade, with the exception that the top has a slight offset as the box is taller than the cubby hole. With both sides and the bottom sitting flush with the front facade, secure the box to the facade using L brackets. This should complete the construction of the wall fixture.
The next step is to attach the lighting elements. The top spotlights are attached using thin bands of plywood or strong backing board. The spotlights are screwed into the thin bands, and the bands are secured to the backside of the top of the box. Use spacers to adjust the height of the spotlights.
Next, disassemble the fluorescent fixtures and discard the casing. The fixtures can be screwed directly through their plastic mounts, into the backside of the front facade. If you have used MDF to secure the front facade, continue to use the MDF as spacers to allow the tubes to run over the connectors. Secure the fluorescent tube transformers to anywhere on the backside of the front facade. Wire everything up, and test the lighting elements.
For me, I’ve added a lamp switch between the fluorescent tubes and the extension cord. This allows for the option to have all lighting elements on, or just the spotlights for different mood settings. After wiring up the switch, attach it to the bottom side of the front facade with some double stick tape.
Next, paint the wall fixture with the desired color. Also, paint the wall where the cubby hole will be exposed with the same wall color, unless you prefer to have a contrasting cubby hole.
Next, secure the mini steel chain cable to the front facade using simple screws. Measure the height of where you want the wall fixture, and secure the heavy duty picture framing hooks to the wall. MAKE SURE TO ATTACH THE WALL FIXTURE SECURELY TO THE WALL as you will be sleeping underneath it! If you are unsure how to do this, seek the help of a professional contractor.
I won’t describe how to run the wires down to the electrical outlet. In my case, the outlet is powered by a wall switch. If one is unavailable, you will need to add a separate power switch for the unit itself.
Next, accessorize with some of your favorite things!
I hope that I’ve managed to describe the construction in enough detail. Again, the assumption is that basic construction skills are required. Please feel free to leave any comments or questions.












TomPier says:
May 7th, 2010 at 2:26 pm
great post as usual!
Wynne says:
May 9th, 2010 at 10:48 pm
This is great
Fabbo!
Andrew Gregory says:
June 3rd, 2010 at 1:14 pm
Err… I’m stunned. I hope that you don’t mind me stealing your ideas!
PS: if you ever get into the design business, please drop me a line! I’ll probably be hiring you on the spot!